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Friday, 16 July 2021

 Reverse Engineering an LCD Display

I have a DAB radio which started to irritate me in various ways. Finally fed up with it, I bought another radio and decided to free up the space that the old radio takes up by tearing it down.

This is the DAB radio taken apart:


 

Nice display 16 char 2 line dot matrix.


Looking at PCB, it seems to have a three wire interface:


Scoping up the lines, one looks like a reset:

Others have data and clock:


Looking at the data, there's a different voltage level in there. I2C has an ACK which comes from a different computer to the one generating the data, so different level makes sense.

As this is probably I2C, switching on the decoder in the scope shows what is being sent:


Now we know the I2C slave address and some data. It does look like I2C. What device is it though? Searching the internet gives a few options. It could be a standard I2C GPIO expander attached to an LCD controller.

After power up there's an initialisation sequence:

That's the first byte in a longer sequence that goes:

0x39, 0x14, 0x7f, 0x57, 0x6b, 0x0c, 0x01,0x06, 0x38, 0x40.

There also seem to be two bytes for every bte of data transmitted, the initialisation bytes have a ledaing byte of 0x00, the data bytes have a value 0f 0x40.

Using this sequence we could maybe find the controller that is used. After more searching there's a possible match. The Winstar WO1602I-TFH- AT module has an initialisation sequence that is similar.  The datasheet  shows the initialisation sequence to be:

0x38, 0x39, 0x14, 0x74, 0x54, 0x6f, 0x0c, 0x01

This is similar enough to probably be the same controller with a slightly different LCD attached. The datasheet is useful. It says the controller is an ST7032, and the first byte of the two that are sent is a control byte. It holds Co and RS. RS is the command/data bit, while Co is a continuation bit that allows more than one control byte to be sent. The datasheet shows the RS bit as bit 6 which matches the trace on the scope. It looks like this is indeed the controller in the display.

Excellent, we have enough data to probably drive this display.









Wednesday, 23 June 2021

 Re-using a Broken Television as a Monitor


or


What To Do With a Broken Television when You Can't Fix It


I was given a broken television.  Technically this television was doubly broken: once when the HDMI inputs stopped working and once when everything stopped working. After the first fault it was taken to a television repair shop (yes, they do still exist) and they couldn't fix it as the parts are not available. I had a look at it on that occasion and found that some RGB inputs did still work, so we fed a signal in there and that allowed the television to live a little longer.

After the second failure nothing appeared on the screen at all, and the backlight did not switch on, so I was given the television to see if I could fix it or do something with it.

The television is an LG 39LE4900 and looks like almost every other television on the planet. Once opened I found a power supply PCB



 and a control PCB:


I also found an inverter PCB, under a metal cover, which powers the backlights:


and what I later found out was a TCON PCB, also under a metal cover:


I had a quick look at the boards and nothing seemed to be obviously wrong. When I powered the television up nothing appeared on the screen and the backlights were off. The remote control worked, in that it turned the television on, but nothing appeared on the screen. I used a torch to see if the LCD was displaying something even though the backlights were off and it wasn't.

I managed to find a service manual on the internet for a similar model, but the control PCB was the only board that the manual had schematics for. I thought this was a bit odd at the time, but it actually makes sense, I'll explain later. unfortunately, as the service manual model wasn't exactly the model I had, all of the component numbers were different to my PCB. I could work out that there was basically one large, presumably custom, chip that controlled almost everything. I checked voltages of power supplies and everything seemed fine.

I also tried to find a serial output from the board that worked, but no luck.

The next step was to get some replacement PCBs from ebay. I did this and eventually replaced all of the PCBs and found that the television still didn't work. This was a bit odd. I then took the step of buying a complete new screen (and a couple more PCBs) to see if that would work with the old and new PCBs. It didn't. This was a bit surprising as I had expected to get something working at this point. 

I then started looking at the PCBs in more detail and found that the TCON board and inverter were made by AUO, and there was actually a datasheet for them. Well, sort of. There was a datasheet for the LCD and backlight and TCON and inverter PCBs, all bundled as a module. AUO seems to sell this as a module that manufacturers can use in their products. LG have done this and then added a PSU and controller PCB. This explains why the controller was the only PCB with schematics in the service manual. The  rest of the electronics was bought in. (Except maybe the PSU which I think is a standard LG board).

The LCD/backlights/TCON/Inverter can be thought of as a larger version of a 16x02 LCD module. That also has a display, backlight, and driver circuit. The only difference is the size of the LCD and the interface used. With the AUO datasheet I now had details of the two connectors that the module provides, one for data and one for backlight. The data input is LVDS.

After another search, I found that the schematic for the PSU PCB was also on the internet, which was useful as I could then hardwire the supply to the LCD backlights. After having done this, I found that the backlights worked fine on both screens. This was good news.

 I then decided that fixing the television wasn't really practical, but I might stand a chance at turning it into a monitor. I'd recently fixed the display on my Novena

 


 laptop so had played around with LCD panels and knew I could get cheap driver PCBs that would take VGA or HDMI and drive an LVDS interface.

I decided to make a hacked together VGA to LVDS adapter PCB attached to a flat cable connector adapter PCB. The VGA/LVDS adapter needs +5V, whereas the PSU PCB in the television only provided +24V or +12V so I had to also use a DC-DC converter to power it. I hardwired the LVDS signals from the adapter PCB to the flat cable PCB using wires. I cut the connector that the adapter PCB supplied off the end.

Once this monster was all wired up and attached to the television, power was applied and a laptop supplied a VGA signal. And it worked. the picture was upside down, but the laptop could flip that and once done the television now displayed a nice stable picture. Well, it did when I could accurately and firmly attach the flat cable from my PCB to the TCON board. I'd been unable to get the connector that the LG control board used, so I'd bought the one that the TCON board used. This connector rather than being the FPC type connector that attaches to the end of the flat cable, attached to a connector that fits round the end of the cable. 

 



This meant that I had to use a piece of folded paper to hold the bare flat cable in ot the connector. I also tried 3D printing a flat spacer to wedge in the socket, but it wasn't ideal. In the end I bought a couple of new cables that were the same length as the original but had the connector on both ends rather than just one end. These work perfectly.

 With this mess of wires and boards working I decided to make a PCB. This would mean that the electronics and wiring could be tidied up and I could use one PCB rather than two or three. 

 


The VGA LVDS adapter was mounted on the new PCB, as was the DC-DC converter. The footprint I used for the converter was a very generic one, which lets me wire almost any DC-D converter I can find on to the board. The wiring holds the converter in place.


I also put a footprint for a Blue Pill on this PCB so I have the option of using that to perform housekeeping functions like turning the supply on and off and providing a timer to turn off the screen after a certain time. I haven't used the Blue pill to do this yet, I just turn the monitor on and off at the mains.

I can also use this PCB as a general Blue pill breakout PCB. I have five PCBs and will probably only ever use two, so the other three can be repurposed.

The PCB fits nicely in on the mounting holes that the AUO module provides, and the VGA connector is accessible once some metalwork has bee cut away.

I've been using the monitor for a few weeks now and it seems ot work fine. I'm making a PCB for the second screen as well, so I'll have that up and running too, I hope. I checked the screen with the first PCB I made and it does also work.

Why the televisions didn't work with the new control PCBs I don't know. I have tested every other PCB I bought and they all work fine. Are the controllers broken? Or do they need some magic setup? I don't know. I'm going to strip them for parts.

Details

The connection between the TCON PCB and the VGA-LVDS adapter:

The 12V supply was used to power the TCON board. The VGA-LVDS PCB needed +5V so the DC-DC converter was used to provide that. I used a variable DC-DC onverter and set it to +5V running from the +12V supply. I measured about 500mA drawn by the adapter so used 1.5A or 2A converters.

The PSU was hardwired to power on. This was done with a wire link on the PSU PCB. Using the schematic I managed to find an appropriate supply and signal to use. (PWR_ON connected to 3V5).

Connections between TCON and LVDS adapter:


VGA-LVDS                TCON

O0+    O0-                CH1_0+    CH1_0-

O1+    O1-                CH1_1+    CH1_1- 

O2+    O2-                CH1_2+    CH1_2-

GND                         GND

OC+    OC-               CH1_CLK+    CH1_CLK-

O3+    O3-                CH1_3+    CH1_3-

E0+    E0-                CH2_0+    CH2_0-

E1+    E1-                CH2_1+    CH2_1- 

E2+    E2-                CH2_2+    CH2_2-

GND                         GND

EC+    EC-               CH2_CLK+    CH2_CLK-

E3+    E3-                CH2_3+    CH2_3-

                                  VDD  +12V

                                LVDS_SEL: Open (HS)

(Closed is JEIDA, which didn't seem correct from the AUO datasheet)

 



Videos

I have a series of videos that show the work I did.

 

 









 






Saturday, 22 May 2021

Miele Induction Hob Problems 2.0

 Miele Induction Hob Problems 2.0

The Miele hob has gone wrong again. The previous fix was a relatively simple capacitor replacement. This time things are not so straightforward. The initial fault was that the hob tripped the RCB in our fuse box when an attempt was made to turn on either of the front two rings. This happened several times. 

The hob was removed to the workshop to see what could be done. Once wired up there the controls report an FE60 error whenever the hob is turned on.

I managed to find some documents online that said that FE60 was a communication error. After a few hours of going round in circles I decided to buy some replacement PCBs. After swapping all of them into the hob I continued getting the FE60 error. So still no working hob. A cheap-ish hob came up on ebay so I bought that and tried that out. Absolutely amazingly that hob came up with the exact same FE60 error. After ruling out an airborne electrical virus of some sort I finally found out what the problem was when I tried operating the hob with the lights out in the workshop. The lights I was using were interfering with the touch sensors used to control the hob. I suspect the code saw that as a communication error with the push button PCB and reported the FE60 error. 

How do you fix FE60?

Operate the hob with the dark glass cover in place. 

So, hob was replaced in the kitchen with a completely new set of PCBs. As I now have two hobs and about three sets of PCBs I have enough spares to last for a while and can completely swap electronics.

A few days later the RCB trips again. This is with completely different PCBs, so I now think that there's a dodgy piece of equipment somewhere in the house and that caused the leakage current to go up. Induction hobs are known to have high leakage and that pushed the RCB over it's trip limit.

At least I now have spares for the hob for about three decades...



Saturday, 15 May 2021

Novena Laptop Fix

Novena Laptop Fix

I got a Novena laptop from Crowd Supply several years ago. 
 

 
I didn't use it too much and that probably contributed to the batteries not being charged enough to maintain good health. That lead to some magic smoke being released from the battery charger PCB. It looks OK in this photo, but it's not.
 

 
The laptop was dead at that point. Being open hardware, though, means that I have all the schematics, gerbers and firmware for the system, so it should be fixable.

I decided to change the Novena to a desktop system, so I removed the battery charger PCB and tried powering from the power socket that is on the main PCB. That seemed to work, in that it powered the main PCB, but the LCD didn't come up and there seemed to be a configuration problem. The push button at the front of the machine also didn't work.

It turns out that to run the Novena as a desktop you need a different PCB where the Senoko PCB lives. It's called the 'Senoko pass through' PCB and the Gerbers are available. I had some made and populated a couple. 
 
 
 
Once fitted in the Novena all was well and the power supply can now be turned on using the button on the front of the case.

The display still didn't work, though. After looking at the schematics I came to the conclusion that a high voltage had travelled down the I2C bus that the battery controller was on and had destroyed anything on there. That unfortunately included the LVDS to eDP video converter chip. Well, that's not too much of a problem as the chip is still available ( I bought a few) and the PCB gerbers are available as well. So I had a few of those made up and populated two of them. 
 
 
 
This PCB was much harder to populate as the BOM wasn't online (I subsequently got a copy) and so some of the components I used weren't exactly the right footprint. The packages used by these components were also in the 'nasty to handsolder' category.  I tried both PCBs and neither came up with a display on the LCD. Was it the layer stack up? Maybe as I just had the PCBs made using my usual cheap supplier and didn't pay any attention to layer stack up. Was it my soldering or the footprint problems? More likely. Either way I still had no LCD display. Did the LCD get blown up? That was possible, so I bought a second LCD panel and tried that. 
 
 
 
No output on any eDP PCB. 
 
I then noticed that you can buy cheap HDMI to eDP converter boards and got a couple of those. Attached to the HDMI port of the Novena and attached to the second LCD I had bought, we had output. The HDMI output still worked and I had verification that the LCD I had bought worked. having an HDMI cable running from the external connector into the case and through a converter PCB to the LCD was untidy though. 

Could I have damaged the mainboard somehow and the LVDS was broken? Maybe, so I bought a new mainboard as they were on sale. I tried that and the same result. No LCD output. 

 
After more searching online I found that you can buy LVDS to eDP converter PCBs that use the same chip that the Novena eDP board uses. I bought one of those and started to investigate wiring it up to the LCD and the Novena mainboard. It wasn't an easy job. Before I finished doing that (or actually, even started wiring), I remembered that I had some spare LVDS to eDP chips that I bought to populate the eDP PCBs. I could remove the chip from the eDP board I got with the Novena and put a new one on. That board wouldn't have the possible layer stack up problem or footprint/component problems of the boards I'd made from scratch. I swapped the chip and tried that. Still no luck. This wasn't looking good. I swapped the mainboards around and still no luck. 

The debug serial port spits out information about the setup as the Novena boot sand I noticed that the LVDS to eDP chip was recognised but didn't get powered up. I fiddled with the EEPROM settings but still no display. The chip seemed fine though, so my swap seemed to be OK.

I then booted into recovery mode, I can't remember why now, probably as it was another option to investigate the disabling of the LCD. I had the Novena facing me (the case opens in the opposite way to a normal laptop), so the LCD was facing away from me. As I booted I suddenly noticed that there was a reflection of the LCD on the screen of my logic analyser. the LCD had started up!

This was good news, but why was it on now? The only thing I could think of was that the disabling of the LCD was now a software problem, the hardware was functioning. Normal boot on the mainboard I had in the Novena was disabling the LCD for some reason. Which main board was I using? Well, it was the new one that I had bought, and that was part of a 'just the board' kit, so it may not have been configured for an LCD, rather to run as a server. I swapped the SD cards between mainboards and rebooted. The LCD worked fine. So maybe that theory was correct and my later problems after the chip swap were due to the SD card configuration. I've not found the setting for the LCD disable, partly due to taking a break after all the kerfuffle.



Saturday, 8 May 2021

 Battery Leakage Again

A recent purchase:



It's a Casio FX502P in pretty much perfect cosmetic condition. Unfortunately the display isn't. It's not displaying anything very well at all. It's attempt at displaying Pi shows how bad the LCD is:



Once I opened it up, the problem was immediately obvious. It was battery leakage again. It's not very obvious in this photo but the batteries have leaked in the area of the battery contacts (which are remarkably clean) and the LCD. 



The LCD is fortunately connected with zebra strips on this calculator, not heat seal:



This meant that I could dismantle the display and clean it. I also cleaned the tracks that had had leakage on them. the solder resist was loose so I removed it on any affected tracks. You can see that tracks I've cleaned are missing their resist and appear gold in this photo:

Once re-assembled, the LCD is working perfectly. It's got good contrast and the filter is completely free of scratches. It's the best example of a FX502P I've got.















Thursday, 25 March 2021

 Using a Thermal Printer Mechanism

 Using a Thermal Printer Mechanism

The Casio CP-10 is a neat calculator that has a thermal printer attached. The calculator also has a built-in clock and can do useful tasks such as printing this month's calendar. The date range is also useful as it ends in 2099. The printer is a small mechanism that take standard 38mm thermal paper. I found out that the mechanism is the same one that the FP-12 printer uses. This is a small printer that is designed to attach to a variety of calculators and pocket computers.

I bought a CP-10 to see if I could re-use the printer mechanism instead of the receipt printers that I have bought off ebay in the past. They are relatively expensive (over £20) whereas the CP-10 can be had for half the price, if the CP-10 is listed as non-working. Unfortunately the CP-10 has a NiCd battery pack, as the printer mechanism take a fair current when running and the pack is used to supply that. This means that a lot of CP-10s have suffered battery leakage and failed. This is what had happened to my example. After a brief attempt to revive it I cut off the printer mechanism and attached a blue pill and some extra circuitry.


There's seven transistors, one for each thermal element, and one transistor that drives the motor. There's an input for the home position switch as well. The mechanism has a tachometer output that gives a series of pulses as a magnet rotates near a coil. The magnet is attached to the motor, so this arrangement gives a reading of the motor speed. The pulse may also be used for dot timing. Unfortunately my mechanism seems to have a broken tachometer output. The coil reads 25M resistance, which is a bit high for a coil of wire. (I have since bought a second CP-10, this one shows signs of life and its coil reads 82R, so is much healthier). After trying my own tacho circuit, then copying the CP-10 circuit, then building a higher gain circuit with an op-amp I decided that the tacho output wasn't reliable enough to use. This may not be too much of a problem if the motor is run off a stable supply as the speed of the motor should be fixed. I should be able to time the motor moving from home position back to home position and scale the dot timings appropriately if need be.

The output from my working CP-10 is like this:


That's the calendar printout from the CP-10. The FP-12 has a print width of 20 characters, the CP-10 also seems to have a print width of 20 characters.

My first attempt at printing was a little more basic than a calculator. I turned the motor on and fired one element of the print head repeatedly:


This is a start, at least I'm getting dots. The motor drive also performs line feeds and the dots show that. The horizontal dots are the feed across the paper. the sloping dots are where the head is returning and the paper is being fed. After some work with the code, including adding a font table and using the input from the home switch, this is the output:


This is a test printout that is printing the parameters of the code that printed that section. I am also using 20 characters as the width here, simply because the mechanism is set up for it. There's a row at the top of the characters that is faint, I think this is to do with the ground wiring I have used.

There is also an interesting effect which is best shown in the lines of asterisks. They are darker on the right hand side of the line. I'm pretty sure this is down to the heating of the printhead as elements are turned on. Every time a dot is printed, the printhead warms up a bit. This means that to get an equivalent dot, you don't need to turn the element on quite as long the next time. In the printout above, I have a parameter called 'DEC_PERIOD' which controls part of my correction for this thermal heating effect. You can see that the second from bottom section has a DEC_PERIOD of 1 and the asterisks are darker to the right hand side of the line. The section above it has a DEC_PERIOD of 2 and the asterisks are printed more evenly.  The correction code counts the number of elements that have fired, accumulates those counts and uses them to create a 'temperature' for the printhead.  The DEC_PERIOD value controls the cooling of the printhead. This does lead to a working correction as can be seen above.

I think the CP-10 code must also be doing something similar, as the calendar printouts above show an even darkness across all the lines.

The CP-10 must also be correcting for supply voltage variations. It runs off four NiCd cells which will present a range of voltages to the motor and hence different speeds of printing. I have attached my working CP-10 to a power supply and varied the voltage. The time to print a line definitely changes, but the characters printed remain in the correct positions. The printout is fainter when the voltage is lower. The code could be using the tachometer signals from the mechanism. I can't do this but I could measure the time taken to print a blank line and use that to adjust the dot timings. Interestingly it appears that the CP-10 does print one blank line after it is powered on. I wonder if that is a timing line and the CP-10 is doing what I will probably have to do if I want to correct for voltage?

Next step? probably a PCB. But do I use a blue pill or STM32 chip? Given the size of the mechanism, a blue pill is a bit on the big side, so I think a chip would be better. The only problem is that there is quite a shortage of STM32s at the moment. I've got a few so that is probably OK.

There's a video here of the prototype:

 


 



Saturday, 6 March 2021

Finite State Machines and the Software Hammer

Finite State Machines and the Software Hammer

The firmware that runs the Casio FX502P gadget that I recently created has a structure and uses a technique that I though was worth documenting. The gadget uses the Arduino framework and is described in the following videos and blog entry.




The prototype:

This device has some tight timing constraints while performing interactions with a real-time interface. It cannot waste time deciding what to do next as it has a bidirectional synchronous bit stream to attend to at about 200kHz. The processor itself runs at tens of MHz so there's time for several instructions to run between clock edges, but not enough time that the code can perform time consuming operations.

As the protocol isn't officially documented I'd like to be able to change the interface behaviour to add new commands, remove commands and maybe alter some of the existing commands. The code needs to be easy to understand and change.

So, we have two requirements:

A. Code must run fast

B. Code must be easy to understand and not break if altered  

These requirements, even if they don't officially declare war on each other, fight against one another. Code that is easy to understand and change isn't usually fast, and code that is fast isn't usually easy to understand or change.

Fast Code

One fast way to respond to inputs is to use interrupts. Something happens and a fragment of code runs. That's the basis of interrupts. If you have something simple then it's relatively easy to implement. A push-button, for instance, is a single input and an interrupt service routine (ISR) that runs when the input is either changed or at a certain logic level. (An interrupt that runs code when an input changes is edge-triggered, one that fires at a certain level is, well, level-triggered).

In the push-button example it's all straightforward. The push-button is pressed, the input changes level and the code runs. Whatever is needed to be done is done and the ISR exits. There are details that have to be attended to, such as using the volatile keyword (in C), we are more interested in the overall structure here than details.

For the FX502P gadget the interface has:

A clock line that runs at approximately 200kHz and clocks data on both edges

A data line, which is bidirectional

Two control lines, active high

A serial data format that uses packets of different lengths, including a longer packet that has a payload with start bit, stop bits,data and parity, which also gets clocked out on a different edge to the data clocked in.

We therefore have edge triggered signals, level triggered signals and have to collect and build packets of different lengths and formats. Suddenly it's all a lot more complicated than a push-button.

At the time of writing (and as this code is easy to change, it changes now and again), there are two interrupts, one driven from the clock and one from a chip enable (CE) control line. The complexity has just moved up a notch. There's now two interrupts that have to be handled. Fortunately in this case they cannot execute simultaneously, although the method I have used doesn't have problems if they do execute simultaneously (on different cores, for example).

Orchestration

So how can you create something that can react to interrupts and perform actions based on those interrupts? Not only react, but react in a way that has memory of what has happened in the past. For instance, if the clock changes state do we clock data in or out? We need to know if we are in the middle of receiving a packet or sending one. 

In the gadget this is done with a Finite State Machine (FSM). It's a thing (Machine) that can be in one of a Finite number of States at any time. FSMs move between states when they receive an input (stimulus). (An FSM is always in a state, and changing from one state to another logically takes no time). There are many ways an FSM can drive outputs, in the one used here, a function is called when the FSMmoves to a new state. An action is taken on entry to a state.

When an ISR runs, it sends a stimulus to the FSM and that may causes a state change. Code is run when entering a new state, that code can do anything required at that time.

Implementation

There are several ways to implement an FSM. As the gadget doesn't have time to spare it uses nested switch statements. You can use a table driven approach but searching the table uses processor cycles and hence more time than a switch statement approach. Using a table, though, allows you to use a higher level of abstraction when defining the FSM. With the gadget I wanted a similar abstraction, but to achieve this I used what I call a 'software hammer'. The idea is to have an abstract description of what you want to achieve, in a form that is easy to understand and easy to alter, and support code that hides the details. This support code is 'hammered' into shape to support the abstract code and handle all the details.

In the gadget code, the nested switch FSM is the abstract part, the rest of the code is hammered to support that abstraction.


Here's a fragment of the FSM code which shows the two nested switch statements:

switch(ce_isr_state)
    {
    case CIS_IDLE:
      
      switch(captured_word)
{
  // Close followed by reset is a '.' key
case IP_CLOSE:
  ce_isr_state = CIS_POSSIBLE_DOT;
  break;
case IP_RESET:
  ce_isr_state = CIS_POSSIBLE_AC;
  break;
case IP_UNKA:
  ce_isr_state = CIS_RX_UNKNOWN_A;
  break;

The first switch decides which state the FSM is in, the second is one which looks at the word that has been captured by the support code in the ISRs. Depending on the value of the packet, the FSM is moved to a new state.

For example, if we are in the IDLE state and we receive a CLOSE packet, then we move to the POSSIBLE_DOT state. It's pretty easy to see how the states follow the packets received from this fragfment, and altering this code is not tricky at all.

The first fragment covered receiving packets and deciding what to do, based on the contents. What about sending data? here's a fragment from a state that needs to send data:

case IP_WAIT:
  
  ce_isr_state = CIS_RX_WAIT;

  num_data_words = 0;
  
  // We want to send a 0 bit on the next clock cycle,
  // set it up
  isr_send_data = 0;
  isr_send_data_save = isr_send_data;
  isr_send_bits = 1;
  isr_send_bits_save = 1;
  isr_send_flag = true;
  SET_DATA_BIT0;
  break;

This is run when the WAIT packet has been received. The required action is to send a packet back of length 1 with the value 0. It's pretty easy to read:

 isr_send_data = 0;      

sets up the data to send while:

isr_send_bits = 1;

sets up the length of the packet.

Then:

isr_send_flag = true;

indicates to the support code that a transmission is needed.

There's some other housekeeping stuff, because the universe requires it, such as the SET_DATA_BIT0 which is exposed here due to the timing of the interface. It can't be done later.

What is important is that the fact that the received data packets are clocked in on one edge of the clock while the transmitted packets are clocked out on the other edge is completely hidden at this layer of abstraction. That detail has been hammered into the support code.

Even though the details of the support code are probably horrible with lots of special case required by the interface, that doesn't matter once it works, as from then on it should only be necessary to change the abstract code when new packets need to be decoded or transmitted. The support code handles the interface, and that isn't going to change.

The whole of the FSM looks pretty much like these two pieces of code, although there are other things that need to be done, like this:

case CIS_WAIT_DATA:
      if(word_bits == 16)
{
  // 16 bits of data
  
  // If data is all 1s then it is header data
  
  if( (captured_word & 0xFFF0) == 0xFFF0 )
    {
      // Header word, ignore it
      // Back for more data
      num_header_words++;
      // We know the length of the next packet
      isr_hint_length = 6;
      ce_isr_state = CIS_WAIT_2;
    }
  else
    {
      // Store this data
      data_words[num_data_words++] = captured_word;

Notes

FSM State

The state an FSM is in is determined by it's state variable. Whatever number is in that variable is the state it is in. It can't be in two states at once and it take no time (logically) to update a variable's value.

DFSM

These FSMs are actually DFSMs (Deterministic Finite State Machines), which means that the state transitions are deterministic. Non deterministic state machines can also be useful, their state transitions can be random in some way. They are not that common, though.

Race Conditions

FSMs can be resilient against race conditions. If stimulii are queued and then processed then you can build your FSM to handle stimulii in any order and still get the correct behaviour. Every state should be examined to see what action it should take for every possible stimulus. It doesn't matter when or in what order the stimulii arrive, the FSM states will always take the appropriate action, and it won't miss stimulii as long as the queuing code is correct.