Isle of Wight Capacitor

I'm not sure what the capacitance is, but I found this recently:

Miele T230C Tumble Dryer De-Problem

Being woken up by a clacking clanking scraping sound (CCSS from now on) normally means the little one has decided to attempt destruction of his cot, but this time, it was a bit too regular and went on for too long. So I went to investigate and the CCSS was coming from the other direction, from the tumble dryer that was running on cheap rate electricity. Oh dear. We're off on holiday today an could do without a dryer failure. Anyway, it's 3:30am so normal getting up time, so I get dressed and go and dismantle the dryer to find where the CCSS is coming from.

The dryer looks like this:

The CCSS sounds like something has fallen inside and is scraping on the drum, so the first thing to do is to remove the top. This looks like two screws but turns into a bit of a battle and ends up being four screws and a slide type hinge at the back. (When I put it all back together I find that you can get the top off without removing any screws at all, just undo the side ones under the plastic covers and the lift the front while sliding the top backwards).

Not much luck with the top off, no obvious 'thing' dragging on the drum. It's all a bit packed in too:

OK, off with the sides, this entails getting the front panel off, which means off with the door and the bottom kick plate. Then screws on the front, top and back of the sides.

I notice when I take the front off that they've provided a spare bulb in a small recess in the top of the front, just above the door. That's a nice touch I think, then later find out that the bulb had managed to unscrew itself over the years and fall out. I screw it back in so it can start it's next 10 year journey wandering out of the holder.


OK, we can see more now, it's all quite neat and well made. Still no obvious culprit and the CCSS is still there. There's nothing touching the drum that I can see and it sounds like it coming from the bearing area. OK, can we see the bearings? Well, yes we can if we take the rear cover off.

Under that metal plate is the rear bearing:

There's a gap around the bearing and in there I see what looks like the source of the CCSS. It looks like a clip or spring has fallen off and is now dragging on the back of the drum. I try to put it back where it came from but it doesn't seem to want to fit back. Then I wonder if it should actually be in the dryer at all, an suddenly realise what it is. It's an underwire from a bra. There's just enough room to get it out. The culprit:

This wire had managed, presumably, to get itself out of its bra and then poke into a hole at the back of the drum, then sit wrapped round the bearing until it decided to make the CCSS. I think this may have happened a while ago as there has been a scraping sound when the dryer is on which I thought was just how it sounded. Maybe it's been there for ages and something recently caused it to go on a wander and then get caught and make the CCSS.

Anyway, re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly, as they say, and I put it all back together. CCSS gone and the drying continues. So not a fix really as nothing was broken or replaced, but the problem has gone.

Carbon brushes look ok for now and are an easy replacement.
Condenser cleaned.
Filters cleaned.
Oh yes, and the light inside now works...

Prinztronic Calculator

I didn't have much interest in this calculator until I took it apart. Modern calculators are very cost conscious and the construction tends to be flexible membranes and other non fixable things, fixed together in a non removable way.

This calculator, though, is totally different. It's a simple, basic calculator, but internally it is a set of modules that plug together. Without the case and plugged together the modules look like this:

The keyboard unplugs:

The processing unit has a single ceramic IC on it, made by Toshiba. I suspect the whole calculator design is a Toshiba one:

The display module has seven segment LEDs on it, each digit being a seaprate module.

The seven segment display modules look a bit the worse for age:

but they do all work:

The set of modules connect together well, and the connected unit plugs into the case using the battery connector as a mechanical link. A single screw then holds the case together. A really neat design.

I've got a video showing how it all fits together here:

Miele induction Hob FE32 Problem Update

The post a while back that detailed my fix to our Miele induction hob has been quite popular and, I hope, useful to people. I thought I'd have a dig around to see if I had any more information about the fix process.

I found some more photos, which may be of use. I'll put them all here, just in case.
This is the mains input connection area, we're in a 240V area, this will probably change for different voltages.

 This is the PCB that had the problem, I removed it to do the replacement of the capacitors. The problem capacitors are bottom left, either side of the coil.

 

Here's a couple of close-ups of the capacitors with the problem:

I found this video on YouTube, which has details of a fix that looks very similar to mine:

German Fix Video